Noh Costume (Chōken) with Paulownia 18th century Japan Probably originally a reference to a type of silk, chōken (literally long silk”) were garments worn during the Muromachi period (1392-1573) by young boys of elite samurai families. High-ranking samurai gifted Noh actors with elegant chōken hitatare (long-sleeved jacket paired with a trouser-skirt) to use as Noh costumes; gradually the term came to mean Noh robes. Typically, chōken are made of silk gauze patterned with gold supplementary wefts. This robe is decorated with two sizes of paulownia flower in gold, white, peach, orange, and green on a purple gauze ground. Chōken were often used in dances by male actors playing elegant female characters, or as costumes for gentle male characters.. Noh Costume (Chōken) with Paulownia 55961