Manchu Woman's Informal Court Robe, late 19th century, 58 x 77 1/2 in. (147.32 x 196.8 cm), Silk tapestry (kesi), China, 19th century, The informal level of court attire called ch'ang-fu included garments worn outside official court ceremonies. The more formal ch'ang-fu robes used the eight medallion scheme, imperial wave pattern in the hem, and large flared cuffs seen here. This striking gown features medallions and cuffs decorated with grass orchids (cymbidiums) and butterflies in well-coordinated patterns that create a sense of harmony. In addition to being a favorite flower of literati painters, the orchid is also a pun for 'grandson'. Informal special occasion robes tended to feature auspicious flowers and insects in their decoration rather than dragons, which designated official court attire.