Encompassing a former royal palace, a wealth of temples and many other monuments, Durbar Square is Kathmandus historic and spiritual centre. The square, after years of neglect, was renovated in 1972-75 in the Hanuman Dhoka Project, initiated after the ascension to the throne of King Birendra. 'Durbar', or correctly darbar, means royal palace or royal court, but the locals prefer to call the square Hanuman Dhoka, 'Hanumans Gate', after the narrow palace gate which is guarded by a crimson-red figure of the monkey god Hanuman. The figure was set up in 1862 to protect the gate from ill luck and enemies of all sortsor, as the Nepalese chronicles put it, from 'evil spirits, witches, and epidemics, such as smallpox'. Hanuman is worshipped mainly on account of his bravery and strength, and has often been adopted by Hindu soldiers as their patron deity. In times gone by, fortresses were guarded by images of Hanuman hewn into their walls, and the kings of Kathmandu and Bhaktapur displa